A mirrored bathroom cabinet is a simple, cheap addition to another bathroom furniture or bathroom suite that can increase the feeling of space and light within the room, provide you with a handily located mirror for shaving or implementing make-up, and accommodate your medications, beauty goods or other odds and ends.
Installing a cabinet on your wall sounds easy, but is it?
Consider where you want the cabinet to be located. Above the basin is a favorite place, if you’ve opted for bathroom furniture with a mirrored door; above the toilet is another place where you can take advantage of wasted wall area. Consider who will be using the cupboard (and when there are some kids whose access you want to restrict ) when deciding the best location and elevation to your cupboard.
The very first stage is measuring. This stage is critical to your eventual success: in case you don’t measure correctly, you may have to drill more than once, and you can also realize that your cabinet, once secured on the wall, does not hang quite directly. So step, then double check your dimensions. Hold, or request a helper to hold, the cupboard in its correct place on the wall. Use a spirit level to get the cabinet exactly right, then draw a pencil line along the top. This line will be hidden from sight when the cabinet is set up if you’re matching the bathroom furniture so that its top is above eye level.
Measure from the top of the cupboard down into the repairing holes. If your cabinet hasn’t yet been supplied complete with pre-drilled fixing holes, then you’ll need to drill these yourself, reinforcing the cabinet if necessary to be certain the holes don’t split with the weight of both cabinet and materials when the cupboard is fixed in place; most stores bought bathroom furniture is supplied pre-drilled to make fitting simpler for your customer, however. Assess the distance between repairing holes, as well. All your measurements must choose the center of the fixing hole (not the edge) as the point to which you quantify. Bathroom Cabinets Calgary – Cabinet Solutions
Next, step down from the top line in your wall into the level of the holes. Mark the wall now, and measure horizontally along this new line to make certain that the fixing hole marks are in the appropriate location, both in relation to one another and in relation to surrounding things. If you’d like your cupboard to be over your basin, at the center of the area available, then measure the space from side to side, find the center stage, and measure an proper amount on both sides of the centre to mark your repairing holes, to guarantee the middle of your cabinet will hang at the center of the space. Do not presume that pre-drilled fixing holes will be equidistant from the middle of the bathroom furniture – test!
Now it’s time to secure fixings in your own wall in which to hang your cupboard. You will want to use another technique for repairing bathroom furniture on a masonry and plaster walls, a stud wall, and a dry lined wall.
On a masonry (brick or blockwork) wall, covered with plaster, so ensure that you use adequately long screws so the wall rather than the plasterwork, supports the weight of the bathroom furniture. Drill your holes, fit wall sockets, then twist in the wall plugs: this should offer a firm mount in most cases. Attempt to ensure, if it’s possible, that you drill to bricks or blocks instead of into the mortar between these, which will be softer and not as supportive. Drill closely into blockwork, which is often softer than brick, to prevent over expanding the holes, and use exclusive wall sockets for this kind of wall. Cabinet Solutions
Stud walling is plasterboard fixed to vertical timber supports (or studs). Fixings for your bathroom furniture have to be screwed to the studs as plasterboard alone won’t be powerful enough to support the weight of the cupboard. Locate the position of the studs by tapping the walls: the area with all the stud behind it is going to sound solid while other regions of the wall will sound hollow as you tap. The screws may be fixed into the wall directly; no wall sockets are needed.
Dry liner walls are walls where the plasterboard is adjusted to the blockwork wall with blobs of adhesive so that it stands out from the surface of the blockwork. Cutting a small part of plasterboard around each fixing hole and halfway via a wooden’spacer’, slotted into this gap, in the wall behind implies that behind the screw you will have a safe foundation of solid wood against strong blockwork that will encourage the twist as it retains the weight of your toilet furniture. If you did not do this, the burden of the cabinet could bring about the unsupported surface to deform. Once the cabinet is hung on the wall, you won’t be able to observe any of the modifications you have made to the wall.
If your toilet wall is tiled, you’ll need to be extra cautious as you drill the holes to restore your bathroom furniture into the wall. Your drill bit has to be strong: either a carbide tipped masonry drill bit or a diamond-tipped drill bit will be most acceptable for tile. The hard, glazed outer surface of the tile makes starting to drill the trickiest part. Consider scoring an X from the tile to give you more surface grip to get started. Drill slowly, building up speed as you go but bearing in mind that persistence, not brute strength, is the secret to boring through tile without cracking it. Use cold water to lubricate the top of the drill bit and keep it from overheating if your tiles are thick or hard. When both tile and wall are drilled through, add your wall sockets as essential. Make sure that the wall plug is completely in the walls so that just the unthreaded top part of the screw sits in the tile: any expansion of this wall plug in the drilled section of tile can create the tile to crack. https://www.cabinetsolutions.com/